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https://github.com/cscott/touchpadspacerfw16

Touchpad Input Module parts for the Framework 16 laptop
https://github.com/cscott/touchpadspacerfw16

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Touchpad Input Module parts for the Framework 16 laptop

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README 

        
# Touchpad Input Module parts

![image](ThinkpadClickpad/touchpad-bottom.png)

![image](./images/full-width.jpg)



This repository contains parts related to the Touchpad Input Module for

the Framework 16 laptop.  The top surface of the touchpad area modules

is 0.8mm, thus one of the items here is a PCB layout for a 0.8mm PCB

in the exact shape of the touchpad top surface, which can be modified

with your own preferred cutout (or no cutout at all).



This respository also contains 3d printable parts for the back rail

of the touchpad and touchpad area spacers, and for the latch assembly

at the front of touchpad area input modules.



## License

The contents of this repository are © 2024 by

C. Scott Ananian and is also licensed under CC BY 4.0.



To view a copy of this license,

visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/



## Assembly and Fabrication



Have JLCPCB (or your preferred board house) fabricate

the top surface as a 0.8mm PCB.  There are two designs here

for that: in `ThinkpadClickpad` you'll find a "normal width"

touchpad module with a cutout for a Thinkpad T470S touchpad.

This is part of a project to make a "touchpad with buttons"

for the FW16.  To complete a "normal width" touchpad,

you'll need two latch pieces, two side rail pieces, and

one "long side rail" piece.



In `FullWidthBlank` you can find a PCB that is the full width

of the FW16 deck, for those who want a seamless touchpad area

with no need for the Framework spacers (or their gaps, or their

silver color).  To complete a "full width" touchpad,

you'll need two latch pieces, two "medium" side rail pieces,

and one "long side rail" piece.  (You could also use *four* latch

pieces, but that's probably overkill.)



I recommend having JLCPCB print the physical pieces as well as

the PCB.  Shipping can be combined, and the latch pieces in particular

have some fine details which can be a challenge to 3d print at home.

(It's definitely possible, though!)  I had the pieces SLS printed

in 3201PA-F black nylon, and the pieces cost about $1 each.



In any case, you glue the appropriate rail parts to the "front" edge

of the PCB, with the "long" rail in the center, and carefully align

and glue the latch parts to leave a 2.9mm gap between the bump in the

center of the rail and the corresponding projection on the latch

piece.



![image](./images/bottom-view.jpg)



I find it easiest to glue the rail parts, then slide the latch pieces

onto the FW16 midplate, put glue on the top, then slide the top plate

on top and press down to set the glue.  That ensures that the latches

get aligned properly.



![image](./images/latches-installed.jpg)



The latch piece has a cutout for a

[3mm x 1.5mm disc magnet](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806207685537.html), to secure

itself to a matching magnet in the FW 16 midplate.  It also contains

cutouts for

[8mm x 1.5mm rubber bumpers](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802433818462.html), which take the place of some

rubberized material in the middle section of the Framework-fabricated

touchpad area modules and ensure a snug fit.



![image](./images/latch-detail.jpg)



For the 'full width blank' you will need a dummy PCB to tell the

FW16 that a touchpad is installed (though it is not).  You can find

the necessary PCB in https://github.com/cscott/DummyTouchpadFW16



![image](./images/dummy.jpg)



You are encouraged to customize the top plate!  If you want to preserve

the stock Framework Touchpad, you can start with either the full width

blank or the clickpad blank and replace the opening with an appropriate

one for the FW16 touchpad.  You're responsible for removing the touchpad

from your stock unit, transferring it over, and mounting it correctly;

sorry I'm not interested in that so I haven't figured out the details,

but patches to this repo are welcome if you've figured it out and want

to share.



Regardless, you can tweak the artwork.  I've done different artwork on

both sides to allow a choice.  I used black soldermask and laid out

the design as copper underneath the soldermask, which gives a subtle

texture.  If you want something more obvious, there are additional

"colors" available: anything you put on the silkscreen layer will be

rendered in white.  If you put anything on the "soldermask" layer the

soldermask will be *removed* in that area.  That means you'll get

either pale yellow (bare PCB) if there is not copper in that area, or

silver/gold if there is copper underneath.  Please note that by

default PCBs any exposed copper will be "tinned" with a solder

containing lead in order to make it easy to mount components.  Since

this is going to be something that sits under your palms all day, I

would strongly recommend avoiding lead.  You can either (a) have no

exposed copper, thus no lead solder; (b) choose a "lead free" surface

finish, for a slight additional cost and a silver color to your exposed

copper; or (c) choose "ENIG" surface finish, for a larger additional

cost but a pretty gold color on your exposed copper layer.