https://github.com/m2415146/metal-casting
training task: filling a 3D printed mold with metal
https://github.com/m2415146/metal-casting
aluminium casting creality fablab-nustmisis flashforge geeetech metal
Last synced: 3 months ago
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training task: filling a 3D printed mold with metal
- Host: GitHub
- URL: https://github.com/m2415146/metal-casting
- Owner: m2415146
- Created: 2025-03-16T20:33:41.000Z (3 months ago)
- Default Branch: main
- Last Pushed: 2025-03-16T20:53:30.000Z (3 months ago)
- Last Synced: 2025-03-16T21:33:43.590Z (3 months ago)
- Topics: aluminium, casting, creality, fablab-nustmisis, flashforge, geeetech, metal
- Homepage:
- Size: 2.93 KB
- Stars: 0
- Watchers: 1
- Forks: 0
- Open Issues: 0
-
Metadata Files:
- Readme: README.md
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README
# metal-casting
training task: filling a 3D printed mold with metal
## description
This is a laboratory work on the subject of "Modern production technologies". The task is to make a 3d printed figure up to 10 * 10 cm in size on a 3D printer from a PLA filament, which we will use to make a gypsum mold, into which we will later pour aluminum. The task is to try the metal casting method in practice.
## important notes
in order to save time, I used a 3D model of the tooth (since the task is not to model from scratch, but to practice). If I have some extra time, I'll try to model something on my own.
[tooth model](https://www.printables.com/model/163987-tooth/comments)
## 3d printing
### slicing
using Orcaslicer v 2.2.
to model the profits, I used the create primitive function in the slicer. they are 3 cones. also, to get out the leftovers, I also used the function of creating primitive models in the slicer - these are 3 cylinders. for better printing, the cylinders are slightly recessed into the plane of the table - this is necessary in order to increase the contact area of the part with the first layer of the printing table.
I also installed tree support (in auto mode, it suited me) to improve the printing of overhangs.
FIlament - PLA Geeetech (purple). I chose this filament because it is the most trouble-free in my personal FDM printing practice. The teacher recommended using transparent PLA, but I don't think it will be a big problem.
3d printer - Flashforge 5m pro
Printing in action:
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/ed0e286d-7c1e-4e98-ab7d-6b76c7bc5392
the filament was open and I hadn't dried it beforehand. I hope that this will not affect the print quality much. printing is done from the Creality thermal camera, the temperature is set to 50 degrees Celsius for PLA.
Creality Space Pi Plus (filament dryer)
Unfortunately the main model of the tooth was not printed - in the morning I found noodles instead of it - the rest of the primitive models and the roots of the tooth itself turned out.
## Problem solving: crutches
since the main task is to practice metal casting, the deadline for the laboratory work itself came up and I no longer had time to print something again, I decided to take a ready-made model - a soldier of the Chinese tin army. This model is larger than the ones that should be suitable for my task, but its shape is suitable for casting metal.
Its about 19+cm height
other parts from wrong printing I decided to use it to create casting channels.
in order to connect these parts to the model, I decided to use a lighter. Since PLA melts at low enough temperatures, it won't be difficult for me for a long time.
Initially, I wanted to use a plastic bottle as a mold for casting plaster (1,5 l).
to correct the bottle, to make it easier to pour plaster into it, I used scissors.
The initial fitting was fine with me and I decided to attach the metal casting parts to the model by preheating them with a lighter.
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/d006606d-1090-4e36-aad6-759ed189b5cb
previously, I fitted the model to the bottle again and cut out the holes with scissors to accommodate the injection channels.
In order not to ruin the model, I attached the first of the channels to the model pad.
However, I soon realized that it was not worth using the front part of the model for this, since the rest of the injection molding channels would have to be placed on the chest and face of the figure, and I took it off.
then I installed 2 injection channels on the back of the model and tried it on in the bottle again.
in order to increase the area of the injection channels when pouring plaster, I used ordinary adhesive tape.
at this point, it became clear that the bottle was not very appropriate for this task, and I decided to look for another container. The class time was limited, so I had to choose from the materials at hand. So, I took an empty cardboard box from the filament
there was another problem: it was necessary to fix the model in the box so that it would be stationary during the casting and during its curing. I thought I could solve this if I positioned the model slightly at an angle so that it would lock into the box without rotation or displacement (it later turned out that the idea was not the most successful).
then I got ready to mix the plaster. It was decided to use the proportions that the teacher suggested to us - 5 parts gypsum, 2 parts water, 1 part sand (by weight).
Scales were used to measure the amount of material, gypsum, sand, and water were poured into a plastic container. I had to stir the mixture using improvised materials - a plastic measuring spoon (not in the photo)
to avoid spilling plaster from the box, it was decided to wrap it with duct tape.
for additional sealing, I tried using a plastic bag from under the filament, but it got stuck on the bottom third of the box, so I had to cut that part off. which didn't fit
then I added a trash bag.
It seemed to me that the figure touches the walls in 2 places, and in order not to spoil the edges of the figure during filling, I laid 2 cut-off pieces from the plastic bag from the filament that I cut earlier.
I used a vibrating table to fill the box with plaster. it is necessary for the plaster to be evenly distributed inside the box and along the figure, as well as for air bubbles to escape.
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/d1126ce3-a51d-43bc-b578-197e05492ef9
https://github.com/user-attachments/assets/06c6202f-4100-4860-ba54-c0effa704bc2
it seemed to me that the proportions for making the gypsum mixture that the teacher provided to us were not quite correct: the mixture turns out to be too liquid. this increases fragility and a high risk of blistering. therefore, starting with the next portion of the mixture (it took several of them for such a volume), I mixed the mixture by eye, adding more gypsum to it so that the consistency of the mixture resembled sour cream (as in a dental laboratory in dentistry).
Important notes: for a better filling of the mixture, it is better to pour it over the wall of the box. It is very important to avoid lumps (given the lack of a kneading tool, it was not easy). it also turned out that the tape and bags around the box were not superfluous - the excess plaster poured into the bag, but the space around remained clean.