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https://github.com/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup

Empirical wave runup models implemented in Python
https://github.com/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup

beach beaches coastal coastal-engineering coastal-modelling

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Empirical wave runup models implemented in Python

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README 

        
=================

Python Wave Runup

=================

::



    Empirical wave runup models implemented in Python for coastal engineers and scientists.



.. image:: https://zenodo.org/badge/180274721.svg

   :target: https://zenodo.org/badge/latestdoi/180274721



.. image:: https://img.shields.io/pypi/v/py-wave-runup.svg

        :target: https://pypi.python.org/pypi/py-wave-runup



.. image:: https://img.shields.io/travis/com/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup.svg

        :target: https://travis-ci.com/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup



.. image:: https://readthedocs.org/projects/py-wave-runup/badge/?version=latest

    :target: https://py-wave-runup.readthedocs.io/en/latest/?badge=latest

    :alt: Documentation Status



.. image:: https://codecov.io/gh/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup/branch/master/graph/badge.svg

    :target: https://codecov.io/gh/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup



.. image:: https://img.shields.io/badge/code%20style-black-000000.svg

    :target: https://github.com/ambv/black



Contents

----------

- `Installation`_

- `Usage`_

- `Documentation`_

- `Background`_

- `Contributing`_

- `Citation`_

- `License`_

- `References`_



Installation

------------



Installation of ``py-wave-runup`` can be done with pip:



.. code:: bash



    pip install py-wave-runup



Usage

-----



The following `wave runup models`_ are available for use:



- ``models.Stockdon2006``: The most commonly cited and widely used runup model.

- ``models.Power2018``: Based on the Gene-Expression Programming technique.

- ``models.Holman1986``: Incorporated wave setup using Duck, NC measurements.

- ``models.Nielsen2009``: Based on runup measurements from NSW, Australia.

- ``models.Ruggiero2001``: Based on runup measurements from dissipative Orgeon beaches.

- ``models.Vousdoukas2012``: Based on runup from European Atlantic coast

- ``models.Senechal2011``: Based on extreme storm condition at Truc Vert, France

- ``models.Beuzen2019``: Gaussian Process (GP) runup model

- ``models.Passarella2018``: Genetic Programming (infragravity and total) swash model 



To get calculate runup, setup and swash, define your offshore conditions in your

selected runup model then you can access each parameter:



.. code:: python



    from py_wave_runup import models



    model_sto06 = models.Stockdon2006(Hs=4, Tp=12, beta=0.1)



    model_sto06.R2     # 2.54

    model_sto06.setup  # 0.96

    model_sto06.sinc   # 2.06

    model_sto06.sig    # 1.65



.. _wave runup models: https://py-wave-runup.readthedocs.io/en/develop/models.html



Documentation

-------------

Documentation is located at https://py-wave-runup.readthedocs.io.



Background

----------



Wave runup refers to the final part of a wave's journey as it travels from offshore

onto the beach. It is observable by anyone who goes to the beach and watches the edge

of the water "runup" and rundown the beach. It is comprised of two components:



    - **setup**: the height of the time averaged superelevation of the mean water level

      above the Still Water Level (SWL)

    - **swash**: the height of the time varying fluctuation of the instantaneous water

      level about the setup elevation



Setup, swash and other components of Total Water Level (TWL) rise are shown in this

handy figure below.



.. image:: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup/master/docs/_static/VitousekDoubling2017Fig1.jpg

   :width: 500 px

   :align: center

..



    | Figure from Vitousek et al. (2017) [#vit17]_



Wave runup can contribute a significant portion of the increase in TWL in coastal

storms causing erosion and inundation. For example, Stockdon et al. (2006) [#sto06]_

collated data from numerous experiments, some of which showed wave runup 2% excedence

heights in excess of 3 m during some storms.



Given the impact such a large increase in TWL can have on coastlines, there has been

much research conducted to try improve our understanding of wave runup processes.

Although there are many processes which can influence wave runup (such as nonlinear

wave transformation, wave reflection, three-dimensional effects, porosity, roughness,

permeability and groundwater) [#cem06]_, many attempts have been made to derive

empirical relatinoships based on easily measurable parameters. Typically, empirical

wave runup models include:



    - **Hs**: significant wave height

    - **Tp**: peak wave length

    - **beta**: beach slope



This python package attempts to consolidate the work done by others in this field and

collate the numerous empirical relationships for wave runup which have been published.



Contributing

------------



As there are many different empirical wave models out there, contributions are most

welcome. If you don't feel confident about changing the code yourself, feel free to open

a `Github issue`_ and let us know what could be added. Otherwise, follow the steps below

to create a Pull Request:



.. _Github issue: https://github.com/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup/issues



1. Fork it (https://github.com/chrisleaman/py-wave-runup/fork)

2. Create the development environment:



    - For pip, run ``pip install --pre -r requirements.txt``

    - For `poetry`_, run ``poetry install``

    - For `anaconda`_, run ``conda env create --name  -f environment.yml``



3. Create your feature branch (``git checkout -b feature/fooBar``)

4. Install pre-commit hooks for automatic formatting (``pre-commit run -a``)

5. Add your code!

6. Add and run tests (``pytest``)

7. Update and check documentation compiles (``sphinx-build -M html ".\docs" ".\docs\_build"``)

8. Commit your changes (``git commit -am 'Add some fooBar``)

9. Push to the branch (``git push origin feature/fooBar``)

10. Create a new Pull Request



.. _poetry: https://python-poetry.org/

.. _anaconda: https://www.anaconda.com/distribution/#download-section



Citation

--------



If this package has been useful to you, please cite the following DOI: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.2667464



License

--------



Distributed under the GNU General Public License v3.



References

----------



.. [#vit17] Vitousek, Sean, Patrick L. Barnard, Charles H. Fletcher, Neil Frazer,

       Li Erikson, and Curt D. Storlazzi. "Doubling of Coastal Flooding Frequency

       within Decades Due to Sea-Level Rise." Scientific Reports 7, no. 1 (May 18,

       2017): 1399. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-017-01362-7.

.. [#sto06] Stockdon, Hilary F., Robert A. Holman, Peter A. Howd, and Asbury H. Sallenger.

       "Empirical Parameterization of Setup, Swash, and Runup." Coastal Engineering 53,

       no. 7 (May 1, 2006): 573-88. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005

.. [#cem06] United States, Army, and Corps of Engineers. Coastal Engineering Manual.

       Washington, D.C.: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, 2006.